Restaurant Review: Samira by Chele Gonzalez (Anya Resort, Tagaytay City, Cavite)

 

Samira by Chele Gonzalez (photo: www.anyaresorts.com)

Tagaytay City is a haven for foodies and staycationers alike and, for “revenge travelers” such as us, Anya Resort Tagaytay is one of the best destinations that satisfies both types.  Barely a month before our visit (March 23 to be exact), the arrival of the multi-awarded Jose Luis “Chele” Gonzalez added another reason to visit this wellness resort - its fine dining restaurant, now rebranded as Samira (“wind” in Sanskrit) by Chele Gonzalez. 

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Chef Chele Gonzalez (photo: www.anyaresorts.com)

Born and raised in Torrelavega in the north of Spain, Chele has been based in the Philippines since 2013.  Upon his arrival, he created a menu not limited to Spanish or modern Filipino fare, but which also drew inspiration from other cuisines around the world. Anya Resort General Manager Mikel Arriet, himself a chef, met Chele at San Sebastian in Spain and thought of bringing their shared culinary vision and experience to Anya Resort Tagaytay.  As per the two requests of Mikel regarding the new direction of the restaurant, Chele made the starters “fun and playful” and the main courses “simple yet satisfying.”

 

Chef Chele Gonzalez at work (photo: www.anyaresorts.com)

During our visit, Chele wasn’t around as he divides his time in Anya as well as in Manila attending to his Gallery by Chele (formerly Gallery VASK), his namesake restaurant at Bonifacio Global City in Taguig City which is ranked 69 in the list of Asia's Top 100 Best Restaurants for 2022.  He also has Enye by Chele at Crimson Resort and Spa in Mactan, Cebu, and is also the co-founder and senior culinary consultant at ADVIChE Food and Beverage Solutions.

 

The bar at Samira by Chele Gonzalez

 

The indoor dining area

On our first night at the resort, Grace, Jandy and I made it a point to try out this rebranded fine dining restaurant.  A bar greets you at the entrance. The elegant interiors, with its deep wood and earth tones, contrasted with the pristine white table linens and vibrantly colorful handcrafted plates.  Adding a theater-like vibe are panoramic windows which reveal the kitchen where you can see the chef and his staff at work.  Though it has a private indoor setting, we decided to dine al fresco at the balcony with its front row view of the setting sun, impressive property and the poolside.  

 

The restaurant balcony - a front row seat to a sunset view

It’s not often that we have steak for dinner so Jandy and I tried out their Grilled U.S. Angus Beef Tenderloin (Php2,200). Grilled to perfection, it was served with sidings of creamy Parmesan mashed potato and charred red cabbage complemented with truffles and mushroom jus which did not dominate the buttery meat but, instead, added more flavors to an already flavorful dish.  Truly marvelous!

 

Al fresco dining at its best.  L-R: Grace, Jandy and the author

Grace, on the other hand, tried out the one of the tapas (an expected feature , not only because of the Spanish chef, but also because the Roxases, the family running the place, are of Spanish descent) on the menu - Gambas al Ajillo (php890), prawns cooked with garlic, chili, parsley and extra virgin olive oil, which was a favorite of hers.   The dinner fare was beautifully plated.

 

Grilled U.S. Angus Beef Tenderloin (photo: www.anyaresorts.com)

The Grilled U.S. Angus Beef Tenderloin is also the finale of the 6-Course Tasting Menu (P 2,950++ and additional P 1,700++ for wine pairing with a selection from Wine Depot) which offers distinct flavors with one dish uniquely different from the previous course using a variety of ingredients.  

 

Gambas Al Ajillo

The Amuse Bouche, a quartet of tasty starters which consists of Seafood Crisp Rice Cracker (shrimp, mussel, mushroom, cream cheese, strawberry and homemade heirloom rice cracker), Foie Gras and Mango Waffle (foie gras mousse cream cheese and mango), Donuts with Txistorra and Bulalo Tacos (a playful spin on the ubiquitous local bulalo, tender and juicy strips of beef are simmered for hours and topped with fresh herbs and vegetables on a soft taco), sets the tone for the rest of the experience.

Seafood Crisp Rice Cracker (photo: www.anyaresorts.com)

Fresh Coconut Cerviche (photo: www.anyaresorts.com)

Grilled Octopus with Ali-Oli (photo: www.anyaresorts.com)

The main courses (aside from the Grilled U.S. Angus Beef Tenderloin) are the Fresh Coconut Ceviche (snapper cooked in Tiger's Milk with calamansi, coconut, roasted cashews, corn and basil),  the beautifully plated and masterfully executed Grilled Octopus with Ali-Oli (with paprika parmentier, bread crumbs and creamy homemade alioli), the Pan-Seared Salmon (with citrus mayonnaise and silky smooth cauliflower purée and served with seasonal vegetables) and Duck with Porcini and Truffle Risotto (creamy vegetable rice with truffle). For dessert, there’s Anya’s interpretation of the usual Tagaytay pasalubong - Buko Pie in Textures (creamy coconut pudding, fresh coconut meat, buttery biscuit, and toasty latik ice cream).

Pan Seared Salmon (photo: www.anyaresorts.com)

 

Buko Pie in Texture (photo: www.anyaresorts.com)

Another must try is the signature Cocido Experience (Php1,990 ++ and additional Php990 for wine pairing with a selection from Wine Depot), Chele’s ingenious four-course meal which is a combination of Tagaytay flavors and Spanish cuisine.  

Compango (photo: www.anyaresorts.com)

It begins with Chele’s version of the Spanish cocido, a comforting, soulful stew, slow-cooked in one big pot, blending various meats (chicken, pork, beef), chorizo, spicy morcilla, smokey morcilla, and garbanzos, transforming it into bechamel croquetas, ropa viaeja pintxos, and delicious cocido paella (an original creation), dishes that bookended the traditional duo of flavorful soup and tender compango (selection of meats).  Complementing these is the chef’s Mama Fries and his signature Burnt Basque Cheesecake.

 

Compango, Cocido Paella and Mama Fries (photo: www.anyaresorts.com) 

On weekends, the restaurant hosts barbecue nights but, since we arrived on a weekday, we weren’t expecting it.  So it came as surprise when Mikel hosted a barbecue night just for the three us, with a table set up in the middle of the garden.  A six-course dinner was prepared for us.

 

Our table setting at the garden

For starters, we had Anya’s very tasty take on Tagaytay’s well-loved Bulalo Soup, a, hearty and filling tender beef shank and bone marrow stew with local vegetables, potatoes and corn.  

Bulalo Soup

Another delightful starter was the irresistible tapas called Bacalao Bunuelos, deep-fried cod (bacalao) in batter, with potato and parsley, that set the tone for the three main courses that followed. 

Bacalao Bunuelos

The Parillada, a sharing plate of four varieties of grilled meat (chicken sausage, spicy chorizo, picante sausage and U.S. Angus skirt), was served with organic Tagaytay salad.

Tagaytay Salad

The Aphap Ala Vasca, grilled fresh apahap (local sea bass), was cooked a la Vasca with the signature garlicky kick but localized with vinegar instead of wine.

Parillada, Aphap Ala Vasca and Tiger Prawn Ala Plancha

The Tiger Prawn Ala Plancha, traditional Spanish flat grilled tiger prawn, was cooked in salt and squeezed lemons.  Dessert was the sweet Tres Leches  with Strawberries and Pistachio.   

 

Tres Leches  with Strawberries and Pistachio

After our dinner, the very friendly Anya Resort Executive Chef Chris A. Leaning dropped by to visit and chat with us.  An Englishman from Grimsby and one of a handful of World Master Chefs currently working in the Philippines, Chris has had over 35 years experience in food management operations in hotels and restaurants.  Just like Chele, he has been in the country for a long time and arrived in Anya Resort within one month of each other.  Working with Chele, he played a key role in developing the new menu of the resort.

 

L-R: the author, Chef Chris Leaning, Grace and Jandy

Samira by Chele Gonzalez was definitely a culinary experience that's worth the drive outside of the metro. Surely, it will shake up the Tagaytay City food scene.

 

Pan Seared Squid in Black Ink Sauce (photo: www.anyaresorts.com)

Samira by Chele Gonzalez: Anya Resort Tagaytay, Buenavista Hills Rd., Brgy. Mag-asawang Ilat, Tagaytay City, 4120 Cavite. Tel: (02) 8657 1640. Mobile numbers: (0998) 955-3630 and (0917) 803-6159. E-mail: resv.tagaytay@anyaresorts.com.  Website: www.anyaresorts.com.