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| Trattoria Alla Madonna |
It was now evening when we
ended our tour of the Rialto Bridge and it was now time for supper. We wanted
to try a specialty of Venice - Spaghetti al nero di seppia (squid ink
spaghetti). You can find this pasta dish in many authentic Venetian osterie or
trattorias but one of the best that offers this dish is Trattoria alla Madonna,
also said to have the best Seafood Risotto in Venice. Check out "Rialto Bridge"
It was very close to Rialto Bridge,
a block off the Grand Canal but, as it was off the beaten path, we still needed
to seek it out. We found La Madonna on a narrow alley far from the maddening
crowd, in one of the most charming corners of the city.
This renowned seafood eatery was
said to be often visited by cultural and show business celebrities who prefer
an informal setting with an attentive quick service. However, their clientele
is still diverse, with a mix of locals and tourists. The restaurant was opened
in 1954 by Mr. Fulvio Rado but, for the last 35 years, it was managed by his
son Lucio.
Upon arrival, we first
noticed the antipasti counter and seafood chiller. As it was still early, we didn’t
have to wait for our table. While seated, it was entertaining to watch the
waiters, in their black trousers and starched white jackets, busily assembling
antipasto plates and seafood dishes ordered by customers.
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| The dining area |
The walls of the nine dining rooms
of this popular and busy trattoria are all adorned with a wealth of Italian
contemporary paintings of famous Italian artists. The menu was quite varied, with
lasagna, spaghetti and soup but the fish dishes predominate.
Trattoria alla Madonna
specializes in seafood and the main dishes in the menu of Venetian classics were
fish dishes such as the Spaghetti al Nero di Seppia (squid-ink
spaghetti), Antipasto Misto di Pesce, Risotto ai Frutti di Mare (seafood
risotto) and the Fritto Misto (mixed seafood). They were prepared in the most natural way to preserve
the typical taste of each ingredient as well as enhance the typical flavors of
each single dish.
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| Antipasti counter |
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| Venetian Fried Sardines (10€) |
For those who don’t love fish,
they have of course an alternative menu with different traditional meat dishes such
as Fegato alla Veneziana (liver), Scaloppine di Vitello (veal
scaloppine) and Costato di Vitello (grilled veal chops).
The traditional Venetian
squid ink spaghetti we ordered (11, 00€) with its strong squid ink aroma, was
excellent. A word of warning though. Before
leaving the restaurant, check that your lips and teeth are not stained with the
black ink sauce.
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| Roast Chicken (10€) |
You might scare someone
off when you smile in the dark. We also ordered Cutlet (breaded the Milanese
way, 12, 00€), Venetian Fried Sardines (10, 00€) and Roast Chicken (10, 00€).
Though we didn’t order wine,
their wine cellar offers a wide choice of wines from the Friuli region of
Collio as well as any prestigious principal regional Italian wine labels such
as Barolo, Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti Riserva.
It was not cheap but we had very
good value for money. The menu clearly
states there is a 17% service fee, plus cover charge which is normal for many
restaurants. Highly recommended.
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| Cutlet (breaded, Milanese way, 12€) |
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| Spaghetti with squid ink (11, 00€) |
Trattoria alla Madonna: Calle
della Madonna, San Polo 594, 30125 Venezia VE, Italy. Tel: 39 0415223824 | E-mail: trattoriamadonna@gmail.com. Website:
www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. Alla Madonna only takes reservations for
tables of four or more. If there’ only the two of you, just show up and
join the queue. It’s best to get there
at 7 PM (when it opens) or after 9 PM. Tourists are ushered to the left section
of the restaurant. All credit cards are accepted. The restaurant is closed on
Wednesdays.
How to Get There:
Take the vaporetto (Line 1)
and get off at "Rialto Mercato," a narrow street along the
Rialto market street. From the foot of the Rialto Bridge, at the San Polo end
of the bridge, turn left and follow the Riva del Vin along the Grand
Canal. Look out for Sottoportego della Madonna, the second passageway on
your right, which then becomes Calle della Madonna. Trattoria alla
Madonna, with a big yellow sign across the street, is on your left.
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