Halo-Halo Ecologies: The Emergent
Environments behind Filipino Food, a labor of love of two
passionate editors, 16 brilliant authors, one gifted artist, and a super
supportive and organized university press, is finally out! The first of its kind, this book, a multi-layered gastro-ecological discourse book on Filipino food, brings
together a transnational community of food enthusiasts, engaged scholars, and
social and environmental activists to set the table for a new canon in
Philippine and Filipino/Filipinx studies and, more broadly, in food studies.
 |
| Online book launch |
Here
in the country, a virtual online book launch was held last October 3, Friday, 3–5
PM HST, and October 4, Saturday, 9–11 AM PHT. Speakers included the book’s editors Dr. Alyssa Paredes, an assistant professor of
anthropology at the University of Michigan, and Dr. Marvin Joseph F. Montefrio, an associate professor of social
sciences (environmental studies) at Yale-NUS College in Singapore.
 |
| Dr. Marvin Joseph F. Montefrio and Dr. Alyssa Paredes |
Also in attendance as their panel were Ms. Felice Prudente Sta. Maria (non-fiction
author, internationally awarded cultural heritage advocate and food historian),
Ms. Giney Villar (Executive Chef, food
historian, blogger and writer) and Mr. Paolo
Ven B. Paculan (educator, historian, writer and Filipino language teacher) sahred their comments and insights.
CSEAS Director Dr. Miriam T. Stark
and Consul-General Mr. Arman R. Talbo
delivered the opening remarks. Dr. Pia Arboleda (University of Hawai'i Momoa, Indo-Pacific Languages and Literatures) moderated the entire session.
The
event was hosted by the Philippine
Consulate-General in Honolulu in partnership with the University of Hawai‘i Center for Southeast Asian Studies (CSEAS)
and Mama Sita Foundation.
The
book, part of the Food
in Asia and the Pacific series, was published by the University of Hawai'i Press last
April 30 of this year. Mr. Aldy Aguirre created
the book cover art and illustrations. Aside from Paredes and Montefrio, joining the online launch were the 16 co-authors namely:
- Anacorita O.
Abasolo
- Inigo Acosta
- Maria
Carinnes Alejandria
- Tami Alvarez
- Mary Jill
Ira A. Banta
- Jose Kervin
Cesar B. Calabias
- Dana M.
Collins
- Adrian De
Leon
- Katrina
Beatrice David Jacinto
- Nicolo Paolo
P. Ludovice
- Orven
Mallari
- Anthony D.
Medrano
- Cla D. Ruzol
- Joshua
Ezekiel C. Sales
- Thea Kersti C. Tandog
- Jessie
Varquez
A
recipe for a new storytelling tradition that combines critical studies of
Filipino food and of the environment, it takes as its starting point the
metaphor of halo-halo, the iconic dessert
and summertime treat of crushed ice, jellies, fruit slices, and ube jam, etc.
which food writers and social historians, alike, frequently describe as a
symbol of Filipino cultural identity for the ways it mixes local and foreign
ingredients into a concoction now readily recognized as typically “Pinoy.” Halo-halo is
also a product of Philippine ecosystems.
In an ever evolving and highly politicized foodscape, it represents an
eclectic blend of environmental tales.
In
294 pages and twelve chapters, the contributors complicate cultural icons, like
Jollibee Chickenjoy and the sari-sari store, and bring these into
conversation with the scavenging practices of informal settlements in Manila
and the agroecological practices of indigenous lumad schools. They reveal new challenges in landscapes spanning
the mountainous frontiers of Northern Luzon, the carceral spaces of urban
Manila; the disaster-prone coastal communities of the Visayas; the
hunger-stricken plantation zones of Mindanao, the ever-changing tides of the
archipelago’s waterways, and the invisibilized ecologies of the diaspora. These
are the emergent environments behind Filipino food, and they compel us to
reimagine what, how, and why we eat.
Mr.
Krishnendu Ray, author of The Migrant's Table and The Ethnic
Restaurateur, stated that “This is the most interesting book I have read
about postcolonial and transnational gastroecology in terms of its empirical
richness and theoretical provocation. Halo-Halo Ecologies’ critical
juxtaposition of food and environment gets us around the cliches of mere
ethnocentric gourmandism. It is a model for thinking through the complex
history and experience of the world we consume (and destroy) to sustain ourselves.”
Ms.
Bettina Makalintal, senior reporter
at Eater.com, added that “As Filipino cuisine and culture continue to gain
global attention, Halo-Halo Ecologies provides an essential new
perspective. While conversations about Filipino cuisine in the diaspora tend to
focus on food as a symbol of cultural identity, this book implores us to
broaden our scope. It's a crucial reminder of how vulnerable our foodways are
and how much our connection to the land matters.”
According
to Mr. Saturnino M. Borras Jr., co-author
of Scholar-Activism and Land Struggles,
“This trailblazing book is framed, argued, and written in a compelling and
extraordinarily accessible manner, making otherwise heavy to digest topics easy
and appetizing to engage. A tour de force, it will proudly stand alongside
classic books on Filipino culture and society.”
Finally,
Mr. Patricio N. Abinales, of University of Hawai‘i at Manoa, added “The painful
irony of this book is that along with the pride over the internationalization
of Filipino cuisine, one strongly felt in the diaspora, is the suffering of
those back home as corporate greed, militarism, and the genetic modification of
food continue the ecological devastation of their foodways. This intrepid group
of scholars asks us to take a pause and consider the increasingly fraught
histories behind our most cherished dishes.”
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